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BGS Training

Anno 2010

January 3, 2014

Tom Ford, Pt 3

by Blake Schaefering


The bare necessities

The bare necessities

For mobile users, the order of the list and the images are mixed up. We apologize for this. Hopefully Squarespace gets their shit straight in 2014.

11. ALWAYS NEW SOCKS AND UNDERWEAR - Does this one really need further explanation? Just because it's underwear, doesn't mean it is hidden. Same for your socks. Imagine that moment when you finally get to see the girl of your dreams in her skivvies. Now imagine her underwear is frayed, worn out and not nearly as white as it used to be. Yeah, she doesn't want to see that either. Keep it fresh. As for socks, I'll relay a true story. At a fitting for the Thom Browne show I did several years ago, Mr Browne himself brought me over a new pair of socks and (jokingly...I think) said he noticed the hole in the pair on my feet. It was kinda like the feeling when your parents say they're not mad, just disappointed. Lesson learned.

Lanvin Wool Tuxedo @ mrporter.com

Lanvin Wool Tuxedo @ mrporter.com

13. A BEAUTIFUL DAY WATCH WITH A METAL BAND - Ask a dozen people on the street for the time and chances are at least 10 will pull out their phone instead of push back their cuff. Unfortunately, a watch is more than just a time keeping apparatus. It's a way to complete your look. It tells way more about the wearer than their punctuality. Choosing one with a metal band as Mr. Ford suggests says the wearer is sophisticated yet adventurous. Keep the word classic in mind when picking one out and you won't be stuck with a monstrosity well after the trend has died. This one is neither expensive nor flashy, so it won't dent your wallet or take away from the rest of your outfit.

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15. PERFECT TEETH - Eh, I know they do all kinds of discreet work to fix teeth, but some simple maintenance will go along way to making your smile shine.  Unless you look like you routinely eat rocks for lunch, use the saved money on your tailor;) Ask Tom Cruise...it really take something to make someone as bats hit crazy as him look even worse.

thom-browne-socks-03.jpg

12. A CLASSIC TUXEDO - You may only wear it bi-annually but for that one night every 700 or so days, you can be the man. Let the others experiment with comedy (Dumb & Dumber), color (dark navy is slick but takes some skill to pull off) or that formal/casual mix that doesn't really mix (no one looks good in a Chucks & Tux combo).  Stick with classic black with satin lapels and a thin discreet stripe on the pants. Pair with a white shirt (ruffles need not apply), bow tie and fresh haircut. Beats the hell out of anything you wore to prom.   

Braun x Dieter Rams

Braun x Dieter Rams

14. THE PERFECT SUNGLASSES - This is gonna be different depending on face shape. Sunglasses Hut has a good guide. This one qualifier will make or break the "perfect" part of this item.

Just as there is watches and suits for different occasions, there is the same for sunglasses. Just make sure you have that ONE pair in your arsenal. You know, the ones that will always be your go-to pair. For me, and icons over the years, the perfect pair are Ray-Ban Wayfarers. 

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TAGS: thom browne, tom ford


December 29, 2013

Tom Ford, Part 2

by Blake Schaefering in Gear, Style


Part 2 of 3 

Part 2 of 3

 

Part 2 of 3 

Part 2 of 3

 

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6. A WELL CUT DARK SUIT - This should be applied to any suit you own. You should really never own a poorly cut suit of any kind but that mistake happens more often than not. I have several nice dark Acne suits that all fit the bill but what every closet really needs is that perfect fitting black or dark blue suit. Preferably two button with a slim notch lapel. Doesn't have to be expensive...just look like it costs a fortune. My suggestion? Buy a nice but not extravagantly priced suit (like one from Suit Supply) and spend the rest of the suit budget on tailoring. And remember: you decide what the tailor does, not the other way around. Not everyone is lucky enough to have a tailor with impeccable taste, so have it tailored on your terms, not his. 

Generic Man Naval

Generic Man Naval

7. A PAIR OF CLASSIC BLACK LACE-UP SHOES - The simpler, the better. Buy a well made pair and take care of them. Learn how to apply polish. Find a good cobbler. Use shoe trees. All of these things are of the utmost importance for this point. Shoes are usually one of the first things people look at when they meet someone (I do it all the time), so make sure your impression is the right one. These from Generic Man are neither fussy, nor expensive.

8. A SMART BLAZER - Blazers shouldn't be limited to special occasions. Buy one (or a few) that you can dress up with a tie as easily as you can dress down with sneakers, and you'll always feel a bit more sophisticated. Suit Supply is, again, a great source but check out the year end sales and spend what you save on tailoring.

Hentsch Man Unstructured Blazer at Mr. Porter

Hentsch Man Unstructured Blazer at Mr. Porter

Nudie Raw Organic Tape Ted Jeans @ Ssense

Nudie Raw Organic Tape Ted Jeans @ Ssense

9. A PERFECT PAIR OF DARK DENIM JEANS - This one can be left up for lots of interpretation. Except the "dark" part...not much wiggle room there. Perfect means perfect for your body shape. If you have legs like tree trunks from 200kg squats, then something with a bit more of a relaxed fit will suit you better than some skin tight Nudie's. If they can be mistaken for leggings (jeggings?) then they are too tight. Even if they are jeggings. And never dad jeans. Ever.

A pair of solid dark raw or selvedge denim jeans will wear in perfectly and look like part of you (after that uncomfortable breaking in phase of course. But that's part of the experience right?). Go in to the store and try them on with a pair of shoes you would normally wear with jeans. 

10. LOTS OF CRISP WHITE COTTON SHIRTS - One isn't enough. The yellow collar and pit stains will sneak up on you and rear their gnarly little heads when you least expect it. But several of the cotton ones. No dry cleaning and often cheaper. Plus they even look good a little wrinkled, unlike those shiny poplin joints you wore in high school. Find a brand that fits and buy several. They go with everything, even on your girlfriend.

Ludlow shirt from J Crew

Ludlow shirt from J Crew

If you haven't already Googled the rest of Tom's list, come back for it on Tuesday (New Year's Eve!!!)

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TAGS: tom ford, generic man, suit supply, nudie jeans, hentsch, mr porter, ssense, style, classic


December 20, 2013

Tom Ford List. Part 1

by Blake Schaefering in news, Gear


ANother Magazine list that everyone should read 

ANother Magazine list that everyone should read

 

ANother Magazine list that everyone should read 

ANother Magazine list that everyone should read

 

Tom Ford.

Designer. Director. Parfumier. Jay-Z song title. Best Smelling Man in the World.

Seriously, this man is the shit. I had the pleasure of working for him the first season he had his men's collection after leaving Gucci and I have to say, the man has an aura so enthralling that you begin to wonder if the perpetual cloud of proper masculinity that surrounds him is laced with some sort of drug. So if anyone has a list of things that every man should have, Tom Ford's is the one to read. Here's how to obtain it:

You laughed. Don't deny it.

You laughed. Don't deny it.

     1. A SENSE OF HUMOUR - Rent these: Blazing Saddles, Groundhog Day, The Big Lebowski, Young Frankenstein, Monty Python and the Holy Grail and Anchorman. Extra credit: Major League, Coming to America, Eddie Murphy's Raw and Delirious, and any stand up from Chris Rock, Dave Chappelle, Richard Pryor, Louis CK, Ricky Gervais, George Carlin or Bill Hicks. And if you still are as cold as stone, throw in a healthy dose of The Simpsons, Arrested Development, Curb Your Enthusiasm, Extras and Seinfeld. If you aren't at least in touch with your funny side now, you don't have one.

See also item 1

See also item 1

 2. A DAILY READ OF THE NEWSPAPER - This doesn't mean the sports page and the comics. Everyone is glued to their devices on their way to work. Make that time well spent and educate yourself on the world around you. No, TMZ doesn't count.

Nuthin' but a number... 

Nuthin' but a number...

 

 3. A SPORT YOU ARE LOVE AND ARE GOOD AT... -  AND ARE WILLING TO BETTER YOURSELF IN. That one wasn't quite complete in my opinion. Of course, this one resonates with me. I've worked with elite teenage athletes, but also men in their 40's who want to continually better themselves in their sport of choice. Work and kids aren't an excuse...invlove the kids and make it something you both can enjoy together. Whether chess (yes, its a sport), polo or a quick round of 3-on-3 at the local Y, immerse yourself into the game.

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 4. TWEEZERS - If you wonder why, you are one of three things: 1) Married (and your wife would agree with Mr. Ford), 2) pre-pubescent, or 3) extremely hirsute. In which, tweezers can be substituted with garden shears. By a pointed pair and a slanted pair and use them for God sakes.

5. A GOOD COLOGNE THAT BECOMES A SIGNATURE - I've searched your the past few years for this one and after courting worthy suitors like Commes des Garcons x Monocle Hinoki, Tom Ford Oud Wood and Byredo Accord Oud, I've finally found the one. November 24th 2013 at the Elizabeth Street location of Le Labo. I know this because it is printed on the label of my Vetiver 46 bottle of perfume oil. The oil makes the scent feel as if it is seeping into the pores of your skin as opposed to the misted alcohol based spray that simply lays on top. It's warmer and lends itself better to the masculine yet not overpowering scent. Immediately I knew...yeah, I'd found my signature.

Lelabo.jpg

Numbers 6 through 10 coming Monday...

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TAGS: tom ford, lists, le labo, byredo, tweezers, humor, vetiver 46, hinoki, monocle, sport